As stated in the article mentioned above, PNG (Professional Numismatists Guild) members-dealers have been assisting news media in investigations of these types of gold-buying companies. It has been found that these companies are paying mere pennies on the dollar.

Prime examples of this misrepresentation are as follows:

* One buyer offers up $60 for a 1925-D Indian Head gold $2.50 quarter eagle graded at Mint State 66 by NGC and valued at $10,000.

* Different companies offered a mere $900 for a 1905 Coronet gold $20 double eagle worth an estimated $11,600.

* At yet another location, $680 was offered for $25,580 worth of certified coins – about 3% of their actual value.

Also noted in the article is that the scales used are not certified or lawfully registered with the appropriate Government agencies so these scales may not present accurate weights.

So please, when you decide it is time to sell your gold and silver, be vigilant when choosing your dealer.

Proof versions were made by the U.S. Mint from 1986-2008. The Mint did not produce 2009 proof American Eagles because of unprecedented demand for the bullion version. With no 2009 proof, pressure is off for key dates and pressure is on for suppliers to fill demand for IRAs.

The KING of the American Eagle proof set is the 1995-W – struck to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the series and carries a very low mintage.

The most expensive Proof silver American Eagle:
- 1995-W Proof 70 Deep Cameo
***** NGC sold 2 pieces deemed Ultra Cameo in January 2010 for $10,925.00 and $9,775.00

Gold has been used in jewelry since the beginning of recorded history (simply look at Ancient Egypt) and the first known gold coins were made in Greece around 650 B.C. in Lydia which is now part of Turkey.

Gold can be found nearly everywhere on earth and is universally recognized as a symbol of wealth and power. During uncertain economic times, gold has proven to be a stabilizing element for people who possess it. Gold serves an untold number of purposes, from commerce to electronics to medicine to jewelry. Before it is used for those afore mentioned purposes, it is generally stored in ingot form.
Even though gold has been located nearly everywhere on earth, it is infrequently found in areas of heavy concentration. Major pockets of gold in the United States can be found in Alaska, California, Georgia and North Carolina.
With gold being found nearly everywhere, many wonder why it is so valuable and so rare – it seems there is simply not enough to satisfy global demand. Gold is truly a precious metal and many experts see nothing but a tight market ahead. A prime example is South Africa, the world’s largest producer, had a 14% decline in production last year. New sources of the rare and precious metal are becoming more elusive.

Gold Fun Facts:
- Gold is 19 times heavier than water. Lead is only 11 times heavier.
- Gold is the best conductor of electricity.
- Pure gold NEVER rusts or corrodes.
- Approx. 75% of gold currently known has been mined in the last century.
- Gold is impervious to reactions with most elements. Only a few super-strength acids and cyanide compounds can begin to dissolve it.

Dates: 
Saturday, March 20th 10am – 5pm 
Sunday, March 21st 10am – 4pm

Location:
Oblates of St. Joseph Seminary
1880 State Highway 315
Pittston, PA 18640

General Info:
Free admission and door prizes

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JAG Semi-Annual Coin Currency Jewelry & Collectible Show

Dates: 
Saturday, April 17th 9am – 5pm 
Sunday, April 18th 10am – 4pm

Location:
Holiday Inn
200 Tigue St
Dunmore, PA 18512-2687

General Info:
Youth Auction

History: On December 1, 1794 the first Flowing Hair Half Dollars (approximately 5,300 pieces) – were delivered. Another 18,000 were produced in January 1795 but these coins were produced with a die of 1794, because dies were too expensive to throw out because of the date.

Draped Bust Half Dollar 1796–1807

History: The Draped Bust Half Dollar was first in 1796. It featured the same obverse and reverses as all other circulating coins of the time, the so-called Draped Bust obverse and
Heraldic Eagle reverse design. This design was the work of then-Chief Engraver Robert Scot.

Key Dates:
1796
1797

Capped Bust Half Dollar 1807–1839

History: The Capped Bust Half Dollar design succeeded the Draped Bust, designed by Mint Assistant Engraver John Reich. Both the obverse and reverse were changed extensively. The coin depicts of Liberty on the obverse and an eagle on the reverse.

Seated Liberty Half Dollar 1838–1891

History: The Seated Liberty half dollar design was completed by Christian Gobrecht, whose obverse was used with every circulating silver U.S. coin of the period. The obverse features an image of Liberty sitting on a rock, wearing a dress and holding a staff with a liberty cap on top and her right hand is balancing a shield with the inscription “LIBERTY.”

Key Dates:
1853-O
1866-S

Barber Half Dollar 1892-1916

History: The Barber Half Dollar is named for its designer, Charles E. Barber, who was Chief Engraver of the U.S. Mint from 1879 to 1917. The design was shared with the quarter and half-dollar of the same period. Extensive internal politics surrounded the awarding of the design job, which had initially been opened to the public (Barber himself sat on the 4 person committee that was in charge of deciding the winner).

Key Dates:
1892-O
1893-S
1896-S
1897-O
1897-S
1914
1915

Walking Liberty Half Dollars 1916-1945

History: All American coinage at the turn of the 20th century was set to be changed in an effort initiated by President Theodore Roosevelt. The new half dollar succeeded the unpopular and often ridiculed Barber half dollar. The Walking Liberty half dollar obverse is considered the best designed silver coin in American coinage. As a result, it was used as the obverse design of the American Silver Eagle bullion coin.

Key Dates:
1916-S
1921
1921-D
1938-D

Note: The value of these coins is based largely on the 90% silver content.

Franklin Half Dollar 1948-1963

History: The Franklin Half Dollar, minted from 1948 to 1963, was designed by John R. Sinnock. The coin pictured Benjamin Franklin on the obverse and the Liberty Bell on the reverse. A small eagle to the right of the bell was necessitated by law; ironically, Franklin himself had opposed the selection of the eagle as the US national bird.

Note: This price is based largely on the 90% silver content of these coins.

Kennedy Half Dollars 1964-Date

History: The story of the Kennedy half dollar’s inception is perhaps best told in the words of then Chief Engraver of the United States Mint, the late Gilroy Roberts:
“Shortly after the tragedy of President Kennedy’s death, November 22, 1963, Miss Eva Adams, the Director of the Mint, telephoned me at the Philadelphia Mint and explained that serious consideration was being given to placing President Kennedy’s portrait on a new design U.S. silver coin and that the quarter dollar, half dollar or the one dollar were under discussion.”
“A day or so later, about November 27, Miss Adams called again and informed me that the half dollar had been chosen for the new design that Mrs. Kennedy did not want to replace Washington’s portrait on the quarter dollar. Also it had been decided to use the profile portrait that appears on our Mint list medal for President Kennedy and the President’s Seal that has been used on the reverse of this and other Mint medals.”

1964 contains 90% silver.
1965-1970 contain 40% silver.

**NOTE**
1976 Bicentennial Coinage
The US Mint issued Bicentennial Coins to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the United States. Mintage of these specially designed Quarters, Half Dollars and Dollars actually began in 1975, which explains why none of these coins were ever dated 1975. These specially designed coins we put aside by collectors and non-collectors alike.
While the design of the coin is unique, the coins have little or no value over what their face value is; for this reason, it’s safe to say you can spend these coins.

History: The first dime to be circulated was the Draped Bust dime, in 1796. It featured the same obverse and reverse as all other circulating coins of the time, the so-called Draped Bust/Small Eagle design. This design was the work of then-Chief Engraver Robert Scot.

Estimated Value: $5,000-$100,000 Depending on Condition

Draped Bust, Heraldic Eagle Quarters 1804–1807

History: The first quarter to be circulated was the Draped Bust Quarter, in 1796 but the eagle used on the reverse changed in 1804 to what is known as a ‘Heraldic Ealge’. This design was the work of then-Chief Engraver Robert Scot.

Estimated Value: $100.00-$8,000 Depending on Condition and Rarity

Key Date: 1804

Capped Bust Quarters 1815–1838

History: The Draped Bust design was succeeded by the Capped Bust, designed by Mint Assistant Engraver John Reich. Both the obverse and reverse were changed extensively. The coin depicts of Liberty on the obverse and an eagle on the reverse.

Estimated Value: $30.00-$1,500 Depending on Condition and Rarity

Seated Liberty Quarters 1838–1891

History: Christian Gobrecht completed the design of this quarter, whose obverse was used with every circulating silver U.S. coin of the period. The obverse features an image of Liberty sitting on a rock, wearing a dress and holding a staff with a liberty cap on top and her right hand is balancing a shield with the inscription “LIBERTY.”

Estimated Value: $8.00-$5,000 Depending on Condition and Rarity

Key Dates:
1849-O
1851-O
1852-O
1853
1860-S
1866
1866-S
1867
1867-S
1870-CC
1871-CC
1872-CC
1873-CC
1875-CC

Barber Quarters 1892–1916

History: The Barber quarter is named for its designer, Charles E. Barber, who was Chief Engraver of the U.S. Mint from 1879 to 1917. The design was shared with the quarter and half-dollar of the same period. Extensive internal politics surrounded the awarding of the design job, which had initially been opened to the public (Barber himself sat on the 4 person committee that was in charge of deciding the winner).

Estimated Value: $2.50-$8,000 Depending on Condition and Rarity

Key Dates:
1896-S
1901-S
1913-S

Standing Liberty Quarters 1916–1930

History: The appearance of the 1916 Liberty Quarter was the first time in the history of our coinage there were separate designs for each of the three denominations. The designs for the dime, quarter, and half dollar, were welcomed for their beauty and quality have been highly praised by collectors and numismatists. The Standing Liberty Quarter was designed by famous sculptor Hermon A. MacNeil.

Estimated Value: $2.50-$1,000 Depending on Condition and Rarity

Key Dates:
1916
1921
1923-S

Washington Quarters 1932–1998

History: The Washington Quarter was introduced in 1932. Interestingly, at the time it was issued as a commemorative coin in honor of President Washington. The design was then reintroduced in 1934 as a regular issue coin. In 1999, the US Mint introduced the 50 State Quarter Program, commemorating each state and territory of the United States in a highly successful numismatic campaign. Coins made before 1965 were made from 90% silver.

1932-1964 Estimated Values: $1.25-$2.50 The value of these quarters are based on the fact that they are made from 90% silver, giving them an overall silver content weight of .18084 ounces.

Key Dates:
1932-D
1932-S

**NOTE**
1976 Bicentennial Coinage
The US Mint issued Bicentennial Coins to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the United States. Mintage of these specially designed Quarters, Half Dollars and Dollars actually began in 1975, which explains why none of these coins were ever dated 1975. These specially designed coins we put aside by collectors and non-collectors alike.
While the design of the coin is unique, the coins have little or no value over what their face value is; for this reason, it’s safe to say you can spend these coins.

The “PRICE” of a coin is how much it would cost you to buy it from a dealer
This is pretty straightforward. The “price” of a coin is merely the amount that it would sell for on the open market, otherwise known as its “retail price.” Coin prices are set by many different factors, including the type and grade of the coin, its rarity and desirability, and to some extent its availability in the marketplace. The most frequently used price guide to U.S. coins is the Red Book.

The “VALUE” of a coin is how much you can sell it for today.
Here’s where it gets a little complicated. When you want to establish what your coin collection is worth today if you wanted to sell it, you are establishing its value. The amount you can sell your coins for (its “value”) is considerably less than its “price” if you had to replace them. Dealers need to make a profit to stay in business, so when you go to sell your collection, you’re not going to get those nice, high Red Book prices.

The Red Book prices are retail amounts.

There is another book, known as the Blue Book, (formally titled “Handbook of United States Coins”), which is the most widely used guide to wholesale coin values. These are the values a coin dealer will offer to pay you for your collection. They typically run about half of what the coins retail for. Coins which derive most of their value from bullion (such as common-date American Eagles and Double Eagles) will get you more (75% to 85% or so) because most of their value is based on the gold itself, rather than the rarity of the coin.

Appraising Your Collection for Insurance Purposes
The one time when it is correct to use the “Price” metric to determine what your collection is worth, is when you are establishing its value for insurance purposes. In this case, you want to insure the replacement cost of your coins. Since you’d have to pay the Red Book (retail) price to replace them, this is the metric you should use.

Always be Realistic About Prices and Values
There is nothing more satisfying to a collector than to pluck a coin worth $100 in the Red Book out a dealer’s $10 pick bin. And in this case, you’ve probably done very well, because it’s likely the dealer overlooked something here. But the more typical case is finding lots of $20 Red Book priced coins the $10 bin. This is because the dealer is probably overstocked in this material, and would be happy to get his cash back to make more marketable purchases. Be careful that you don’t get carried away thinking you’re getting bargains in cases like this, because the amount you can sell the coin for, its value to you, is about what you paid for it. In other words, don’t deceive yourself into thinking that the value of a given coin is equivalent to the price you paid for it.

Consider getting yourself a copy of the Blue Book so that you can get a realistic handle on how much you can actually sell your coin collection for today if you really needed to.

Our mission statement has always been: “Do Not Sell Your Gold, Silver Jewelry or Coins.“ Listen, in today‘s difficult times the gold and silver you have been holding can be a valuable source of income at the right time, but there are important choices to be made regarding fair value & reputable dealers. Vintage Gold & Coin is here to help you each step of the way from what to sell and what to hold to how to get you the best price possible. We work on a very small profit margin which has led to a large volume of business in the past years. We want to provide you with the information and educate you in order for you to get the best price on all of your gold, silver and platinum jewelry and coins.

We have always believed that knowledge is your best defense against mistakes and we strive to educate you in the sale of your precious metals. We post daily gold & silver prices, examine, test, and weigh your items in your full view and we pay CASH to the exact amount of your gold weight. We assure you personal service. Our regular customers value this aspect of our business and that has multiplied by constant referral customers daily.

“Don‘t be fooled, Be smart“ may seem like a funny motto but it is true to its claim.

We are licensed precious metals dealer, owned and operated by myself (Paul) of Dickson City. As stated previously, we adjust our payments according to daily gold & silver pricing and we examine, test, and accurately weigh all items in your full view. This process and our commitment to you, the customer have earned us a stellar reputation for honesty and fairness in NEPA. Also, if you have interest in purchasing gold or silver as an investment or a professional referral, I feel I can offer sound advice based on my years of experience and just from living this business year in and year out.

What coins do you buy at Vintage Gold & Coin?

I buy any size collection, any date gold coins, any date silver coins, proof sets, mint sets, any bullion coins or bars (gold, silver, platinum), from any country and commemorative coins. Most customers have coins with silver value (dimes, quarters & halves pre 1965). We are paying 10.00 to $1 this week. We do not cherry pick your collections – we buy it all.

How do customers sell coins at Vintage Gold & Coin?

First of all, most gold shops do not by coins and secondly, most gold shops that buy coins are not coin dealers. I am a registered ANA member and have been buying and selling coins for over 15 years. I do coins everyday! To sell coins, come into the store M-F 11:30-6, Saturday till 5pm – Appointments to 8pm. 1620 Main St. by the gold anchor or I come to you or we go to your bank or mine. We sort your stuff (explain) we pay cash no matter how much. Done. Deals over. Look – you have the product, we can get the cash to buy it. You do not have to sell it – I like coins.

B, RB and R are used to describe the color of uncirculated copper coins.

B=Brown
The brown tag is a bit of a misnomer since coins can carry many colors like chocolate brown, blue hue and purple

RB=Red and Brown
This is used if much of the original mint red remains (not fully, of course)

R=Red
Coin must show nearly full Mint red color.

C and DC refer to the degree of contrast between the devices and the fields on a proof coin.

C=Cameo
Cameo coins exhibit contrast between frosted devices and mirrored fields.

DC=Deep Cameo
Deep Cameo coins have deeply frosted devices that contrast dramatically with the fields giving the coin a “black & white” effect.

D=Deep Mirror Prooflike
Used in grading Mint state Morgan Dollars. These coins exhibit deeply reflective mirrored fields.

B is also used for non-copper coins but in a much different fashion.

B=Full Split Bands
Used on Mint State (MS) Mercury Dimes and Roosevelt Dimes.
This describes the split in the central bands of the fasces on the Mercury Dime’s reverse and indicates the coin had a strong central strike.
On the Roosevelt Dime it is used to signify a fully struck torch.

F=Full Bell Lines
Used on Mint State (MS) Franklin Half Dollars.
The lowest set of lines on the Liberty Bell must be fully visible and unmarred.

H=Full Head
Used on Mint State (MS) and About Uncirculated Standing Liberty Quarters.
This mark indicates that a Standing Liberty Quarter is well struck and that Liberty’s head on the obverse is fully defined.

FS=Full Steps
Used on Mint State (MS) Jefferson Nickel.
Refers to the representation of Monticello on the reverse of a Jefferson Nickel.

GSA=General Services Administration
Starting in 1972, the federal government began selling 2.9 million silver dollars that had been stored in treasury vaults and put these coins in special packaging.
Best known are the Carson City Dollars.

VAM=Derived from the last names of the authors of The Comprehansive Catalog and Encyclopedia of US Morgan and Peace Dollars.
Refers to the Morgan and Peace dollar die varieties listed in the book.

The interest in “yellow metal” is based on the fact that the price of gold has risen more than $900.00 /oz. since 2002. A few weeks ago the price of gold breached the $1200.00 /oz level. Generally, when the gold price rises, it lets us know that people are worried about inflation. Gold is generally seen as a safe haven asset which means that when people are worried that governments are printing too much paper money they tend to buy gold as a way to store value. The printing of paper currencies which has no real upper limit, tends to push up the price of gold which is finite. it’s the old story of more money chasing a limited amount of goods. So people are holding out for a higher price for their gold. Right now, most seem to be focused on the holidays, holiday spending without guilt. So selling off gold at historic high prices is the norm especially this week as we are in the thick of the holiday season.

Are there any gold items that make sense to buy in this $1100.00 plus gold market?

With gold above the $1100-a-troy-oz level, it is understandable when non-collectors confuse the gold market with the coin market.
However, for collectors, the higher price of gold spells opportunity if you happen to believe that the price of bullion is unlikely to fall significantly below this milestone price level.
What am I talking about?
Just this: The quadrupling of the price of gold since the 2001 low point has done much to wipe out price distinctions made by collectors among various collector gold coin issues.

Many coins trade on the secondary market for essentially the price of bullion plus a markup just large enough to prevent the dealer from sending the coin to the melting pot.
It is time for long term collectors to start taking at gold coin mintages and seeing just what kind of low mintages can be acquired for melt value.

Can you buy a coin with mintage in the hundreds for melt value? It looks to me like you can. There are numerous small countries that have issued commemoratives with very low mintages that currently have no great collector demand behind them.
This advice goes double for world coin collectors who want to own a little gold anyway as a hedge against inflation or other financial disasters.

Why buy the popular American Eagles or Canadian Maple Leaves that have mintages in the hundreds of thousands and millions when you can enjoy the beauty and variety that the world collector coin field offers?
There is only one reason: if you figure a day will come when you will have to sell a large number of gold coins rapidly, then bullion coins have the advantage.
However, if you are hedging in the manner of long-term insurance and you figure you will have a little more time to sell the gold coins when the time comes, well then these low mintage collector coins seem to me to be a more appealing option.